Camels Lead Riding Walk River

There's plenty to do at Sabuk. Of course you can game drive, and there is plenty of game around, but this is perhaps to miss the point of this area. At Sabuk you can really make the most of the freedom that Laikipia offers; walk, swim, sleep under the stars - just enjoy being in the middle of nowhere in a place virtually devoid of rules.

Verity, after over twenty years of going on safari knows what the best bits are and where you'll find them. She'll point you to an overgrown little path down to the river, which a couple of her Samburu staff will lead you down to. They're the first to leap from the giant boulders into the water with wild whoops. There have been no signs of crocodile or hippo in the river round here, and it's such a luxury to play about in the water in this intense heat - floating like Baloo and Mowgli past hanging palms.

Back in the lodge, anyone having a vulturine "I-dunno-what-dyou wanna-do" moment, is quickly countered with "let's go on a two day camel trek to those distant hills" . The camels are a big thing here, not only literally.

There are 28 that you can either ride, or walk beside - not all camels are riding camels, some just carry bags. Despite their reputation for being very uncomfortable, camels are not too bad. Their pace has a gentle rolling movement, and Sabuk's thickly padded seats make it comfortable - in short bursts. Unlike horses, they appear to require no coordination at all in the rider, especially when you're being lead. We mastered the art of riding backwards which was an interesting perspective - try doing that on a horse after a good lunch.

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